1. Originally posted by thechicken:[..]

    Give some information in reais if you are really in brasil and I can help you.
    Basically, if you are looking for really quality sounds, you could start to build a pedal collection. If you just feel like messing arond with effects and playing your favorite songs, a multi effect could serve you better.


    I am looking for something tht will give me the best "custo beneficio"... that will really be worth buying... and I gave u the info in dollars cause I am going to be visiting the US twice next year so I hope to buy things there ... but well... If yu want it in reais I think it´s around 500 - 700 hundred in januray (it depends , I´m still depending on other things) and about 700 hundred in July...
  2. Originally posted by NLOTH_Victor:[..]

    I am looking for something tht will give me the best "custo beneficio"... that will really be worth buying... and I gave u the info in dollars cause I am going to be visiting the US twice next year so I hope to buy things there ... but well... If yu want it in reais I think it´s around 500 - 700 hundred in januray (it depends , I´m still depending on other things) and about 700 hundred in July...


    It all depends on what you want man. I'm getting a multi-fx because i'm in a band, and live it's a lot easier to switch from pre-set to pre-set. The sounds on multi-fx aren't bad at all (depending on how much money you're willing to spend) I know professional giggers that use multi-fx and swear on their effects models. I've seen demo's where they put the exact same settigns on a pedal sim and the actual pedal, and they sound the same. If you're just starting out and you just want to frig around in your room and play some cool stuff, get a few pedals. If you're looking to play U2, get a Boss SD-1 and a Boss Delay pedal (i recommend the DD-20, it has an LED indicator as well as a wicked mod delay, which is precise for Edge's tone). After that, it's just basically how much variety you want. For most of the bands you said, all you need is an overdrive and a delay. You can be picky and get a compressor as well, but you don't actually need one.
  3. Originally posted by RattleandHum1988:[..]

    It all depends on what you want man. I'm getting a multi-fx because i'm in a band, and live it's a lot easier to switch from pre-set to pre-set. The sounds on multi-fx aren't bad at all (depending on how much money you're willing to spend) I know professional giggers that use multi-fx and swear on their effects models. I've seen demo's where they put the exact same settigns on a pedal sim and the actual pedal, and they sound the same. If you're just starting out and you just want to frig around in your room and play some cool stuff, get a few pedals. If you're looking to play U2, get a Boss SD-1 and a Boss Delay pedal (i recommend the DD-20, it has an LED indicator as well as a wicked mod delay, which is precise for Edge's tone). After that, it's just basically how much variety you want. For most of the bands you said, all you need is an overdrive and a delay. You can be picky and get a compressor as well, but you don't actually need one.


    Thanx... I am tending to buying one multi effects unit, I just wonder if it lasts as long as the stomp boxes.... but thanx again, I think they r both good
  4. Originally posted by thechicken:I have never played this song, I was just saying that the chord is an Em7 based on the "chord formation" at the end of the "chords+lyrics" part of the post.
    It's the same; following that chord diagram he posted,

    0 2 0 0 0 0
    E B D G B E
    ......^.................... => when not pushing the second fret on the D string, you add a D note, that makes both a Em7 and a Em/D. In this case, it's the same.
  5. Originally posted by LikeASong:[..]It's the same; following that chord diagram he posted,

    0 2 0 0 0 0
    E B D G B E
    ......^.................... => when not pushing the second fret on the D string, you add a D note, that makes both a Em7 and a Em/D. In this case, it's the same.


    As far as I am aware, when you have something like Em/D, it means that it is a regular Em chord, with D as the bass note, or if you prefer, with the D as the lower note of the chord. According to this diagram, this is not what is happening.
    A good example would be like:
    A regular C major chord:
    C(with C as the lower note):
    x 3 2 0 1 0
    x C E G C E
    ^
    Now, a C/G(with G as the lower note):
    3 3 2 0 1 0
    G C E G C E
    ^

    Hope it is clear.

    Originally posted by NLOTH_Victor:[..]

    I am looking for something tht will give me the best "custo beneficio"... that will really be worth buying... and I gave u the info in dollars cause I am going to be visiting the US twice next year so I hope to buy things there ... but well... If yu want it in reais I think it´s around 500 - 700 hundred in januray (it depends , I´m still depending on other things) and about 700 hundred in July...


    With that money(700) you could get a delay around here or an overdrive, not both.
    In the US maybe you could get both.
    Yeah, as you said, the multi effects you be probably better for you. I think it really comes down to how good you want the sounds to be. It is not that the multi is bad, it is just that the individual units are USUALLY better.
  6. Originally posted by thechicken:[..]
    With that money(700) you could get a delay around here or an overdrive, not both.
    In the US maybe you could get both.
    Yeah, as you said, the multi effects you be probably better for you. I think it really comes down to how good you want the sounds to be. It is not that the multi is bad, it is just that the individual units are USUALLY better.


    Thank y'all for the help, I´ll get a ulti effect 'cause that´s what fits in my pocket and I realised I´m not that good yet ... Once again, thanx you were very helpful
  7. If you have the "It Might Get Loud" DVD, you will learn something fun...

    In the film there is a picture of the window of Stuyvesant Music Inc. In that picture of the store window, you see an Explorer bass.

    But it then cut to a show of INSIDE a guitar store. In that picture of inside of a guitar store is actually inside of Stuyvesant. THAT Explorer shown hanging on the wall in the picture is apparently the exact Explorer that The Edge bought.

    The IMGL producers and director mention that they saw the picture of the receipt in U2 By U2. They found the owner of the now closed store. The owner said that he took pictures every week of what was on the wall to keep records. He looked at the picture of Edge's receipt, went to his files and produced that picture for the Director/Producers of IMGL.

    So that is sort of cool/sort of fun.
  8. BELOW is the promo picture for the new Warwick Adam Clayton Reverso Signature bass guitar. There are a few places in europe taking orders now. Pricey but nice! It's around 6,000 Euros - YIKES!

    Just thought the Adam fans would like to see the piccy.



    Details on the bass:
    [LIST]
    [*]Warwick Adam Clayton Signature Reverso E-Bass
    [*]Signature Bass
    [*]Mahogany Body
    [*]3/9" Quilted AAAA Maple top
    [*]Flamed Maple with Ekanga Veneer stripes
    [*]Tigerstripe Ebony Fretboard
    [*]24 Frets
    [*]Scale 864mm Long Scale
    [*]Nut width 36,5mm
    [*]1 x MEC P active Pickup
    [*]Warwick 2pcs. Bridge
    [*]Finish Natural Satin
    [*]incl. Rockcase and Adam Clayton Signature.
    [/LIST]
  9. Originally posted by thechicken:As far as I am aware, when you have something like Em/D, it means that it is a regular Em chord, with D as the bass note, or if you prefer, with the D as the lower note of the chord. According to this diagram, this is not what is happening.
    A good example would be like:
    A regular C major chord:
    C(with C as the lower note):
    x 3 2 0 1 0
    x C E G C E
    ^
    Now, a C/G(with G as the lower note):
    3 3 2 0 1 0
    G C E G C E
    ^

    Hope it is clear.
    Yes, yes, it's clear and ok. But try to imagine (with standard eBGDAE tuning) a Em/D (with a D note on the bass): since the D is on the 10th fret of the E string, that means that you can also play it on the 5th fret of the A string... which, as you will probably know, means the same as playing the D string open

    ......Em/D............Em/D...............Em/D...........
    e----0--------------0---------------0--------
    B----0--------------0---------------0---------
    G----0--------------0---------------0---------
    D----0--------------0---------------0---------
    A----2--------------5---------------2---------
    E----10-------------0---------------0----------


    The underlined, italic and bold Zero, 0 (=the D string played open), is the lowest D you can achieve with standard tuning. Therefore, saying Em/D is as right as saying Em7, since (in this case) they are equivalent chords.


    PS. A better way to play both the Em7 or the Em/D, in order to add some extra depth and interest to the chord, is playing it like EADGBE = 020030, with the B string pushed on 3rd fret. I always do it like that, moreover it's a fantastic fingering if you're doing a Em7>>G progression
  10. Originally posted by LikeASong:[..]Yes, yes, it's clear and ok. But try to imagine (with standard eBGDAE tuning) a Em/D (with a D note on the bass): since the D is on the 10th fret of the E string, that means that you can also play it on the 5th fret of the A string... which, as you will probably know, means the same as playing the D string open

    ......Em/D............Em/D...............Em/D...........
    e----0--------------0---------------0--------
    B----0--------------0---------------0---------
    G----0--------------0---------------0---------
    D----0--------------0---------------0[/i][/b]---------
    A----2--------------5---------------2---------
    E----10-------------0---------------0----------


    The underlined, italic and bold Zero, 0[/s][/i][/b] (=the D string played open), is the lowest D you can achieve with standard tuning. Therefore, saying Em/D is as right as saying Em7, since (in this case) they are equivalent chords.


    PS. A better way to play both the Em7 or the Em/D, in order to add some extra depth and interest to the chord, is playing it like EADGBE = 020030, with the B string pushed on 3rd fret. I always do it like that, moreover it's a fantastic fingering if you're doing a Em7>>G progression


    Very true, except that is wouldn't be a Em/D. If you wanted to make such chord, you would have to move the other notes up an octave, in a way that the open string D would be the lowest note.
    If the D is not the lowest not, then the chord is not a Em/D.
  11. Originally posted by anstratdubh1979:BELOW is the promo picture for the new Warwick Adam Clayton Reverso Signature bass guitar. There are a few places in europe taking orders now. Pricey but nice! It's around 6,000 Euros - YIKES!

    Just thought the Adam fans would like to see the piccy.

    [image]

    Details on the bass:
    [LIST]
    [*]Warwick Adam Clayton Signature Reverso E-Bass
    [*]Signature Bass
    [*]Mahogany Body
    [*]3/9" Quilted AAAA Maple top
    [*]Flamed Maple with Ekanga Veneer stripes
    [*]Tigerstripe Ebony Fretboard
    [*]24 Frets
    [*]Scale 864mm Long Scale
    [*]Nut width 36,5mm
    [*]1 x MEC P active Pickup
    [*]Warwick 2pcs. Bridge
    [*]Finish Natural Satin
    [*]incl. Rockcase and Adam Clayton Signature.
    [/LIST]


    I love Adams playing,tone and stage presence but that bass is ugly.They certainly won't sell very many with the price and looks of it.I also think the tone he gets with his Precisions and Jazz basses are alot better.

  12. Originally posted by thechicken:Very true, except that is wouldn't be a Em/D. If you wanted to make such chord, you would have to move the other notes up an octave, in a way that the open string D would be the lowest note.
    If the D is not the lowest not, then the chord is not a Em/D.
    That's what I meant with "with standard tuning, the open D is the lowest D you can achieve"... But ok, then we agree... partially. There's always the discussion about if a " X / Y" chord means that Y should be the bass, or simply an added note. I support the second idea, because sometimes you simply can't hit some notes without changing your tuning (or moving 12 frets up, as you said); for example, there's a spanish song which features a chord called G#m/F#, which obviously you can't play with the F# as the lowest note; the fingering for that chord is the following (EADGBe) : 4 6 6 4 7 4
    There, the F# is added on the B string, on the 7th fret. You barre the 4th fret with the index finger, hit the 6th and 6th frets with the middle fingers, and the 7th fret with the pinky. It's hard but it's the only way to do it right.

    This is a bit confusing but I hope you got me
    The /X doesn't have to be the lowest note of the chord!! (in my opinion)